The primary alignment is given in the SA tag: 19 mismatches (10 bases soft clipped), nominal mapq of 9.
The issue is that bwa is reporting it as a split read alignment using the SA tag, not an alternate alignment using the XA tag. There's also 6 alternate alignments in the XA tag that I removed for clarity as they are different alignment possibilities, and do not form part of a single split alignment.
One would expect split reads to have CIGARs something like "25M75S" on one record, and "25S75M" on the other because the aligner is reporting a split read alignment. In this case, the aligner is reporting a split read in which one of the alignments is not split at all.